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Nonlinear wave groups on deep water : ウィキペディア英語版
Nonlinear wave groups on deep water

In the nonlinear theory of wave groups on deep-water the waves start to propagate away from an initially disturbed body of water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude of the free surface displacement in the wave origin. Then the water is acted on by no external force other than gravity.
The water is supposed to be a nonviscous and homogeneous liquid. The free surface of the water is infinite in extent. The external pressure on the free surface is constant. The liquid fills the space below the free surface.
==Classical formulation==

Classical equations of the problem include:
(i) the Laplace's equation for velocity potential Φ,

(ii) nonlinear kinematic condition which means that a liquid particle in the free surface can have no velocity relative to the surface in the direction of the normal,
(iii) nonlinear condition of the pressure continuity across the free surface,
(iiii) conditions at infinity,
(iiiii) initial conditions.
For simplicity, consider the flow in the vertical x,z-plane with
the z-axis oriented upward and the x-axis
in horizontal direction.
It is common practice to seek the equation of the free surface
of the form

z-\eta (x,\,t)=0.

The liquid fills the halfspace z<\eta (x,\,t).
The Laplace's equation for the velocity potential Φ reads

\frac+\frac=0.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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